A GUIDE TO A QUICK GETAWAY IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
While I wouldn’t say that being in a long distance relationship is preferred, I will say that it has some perks. Think: a personal tour guide. With my boyfriend living in Portland, a trip to the coast to camp on a secluded beach, eat some mouthwatering food, watch surfers, hike to breathtaking views and even visit a cheese factory was an obvious yes from me. Honestly, the hour and a half drive along winding highways overlooking the ocean and mountains was worth it alone.
We snuck away for 24 hours, but I could have been gone for days, stopping at every beach and every lookout. Here are some things I highly recommend for you to check out if you’ve only got time for a quick trip.
First Stop: Tillamook
On our way to the campsite we stopped in Tillamook for dinner and an obligatory tour of the cheese factory. Driving into the town, we knew we were in the right place from the smell. Farmland stretched the land and the scent of cow farts hit us out of nowhere. The scent reminded me of driving through Ohio during Midwest road trips, but the town looked like it belonged somewhere in the south with diners serving comfort food lining the streets. Familiar, but not necessarily in a good way. Thankfully, the rest of the city had some pretty redeeming qualities.
Obligatory: Tillamook Cheese Factory
While I’ve never really been one for museums or tours, I actually found this place pretty dang cool. My fridge has always had at least a few Tillamook cheese packets lying around in miscellaneous drawers, so while I had never necessarily bought any of their products, I was familiar with the brand.
Here I learned about the process of making cheese, including little factoids about various types of cows, and even got some samples. There was also a shopping area within the factory to buy Tillamook products and a creamery for the freshest ice cream you can possibly get.
Dinner: Recess
Like I said, there’s comfort food everywhere in Tillamook, so after our tour of the cheese factory we decided to hit up a food truck serving burgers, sandwiches and southern cuisine. I was craving a salad for whatever reason, but unfortunately they were out. Instead I settled on a barbeque chicken sandwich with fries, but I would hardly call it settling. My boyfriend on the other hand went all out country and got a their foursquare waffle – pulled pork on a cornbread waffle. Snagging a bite, I can vouge for it being pretty freaking good.
Where we stayed: Cape Meares
When camping comes up in conversation, bad memories from my childhood in upper peninsula of Michigan – getting stuck in thunderstorms, waking up covered in bug bites and getting no sleep – come to mind. Therefore, when sleeping on the beach was suggested, I wasn’t necessarily jumping at the idea, but I decided to suck it up and have an open mind. It had been years since the last time I’d pitched up a tent and I’m sure it couldn’t be as bad as I remember. And it wasn’t.
Parking at Cape Meares, my boyfriend and I loaded up our bags and walked along the sandy dunes, following the sound of the ocean. As soon as we climbed over the final hill the sound of waves crashing on the sand filled our ears and the vacant beach came to view. While it was pretty chilly, I was surprised to see no one else out. So different than the packed beaches in Hawaii and Mexico that I had spent the last few months frequenting.
We set down our camping gear and went to look for wood for a fire. Actually, it was more like my boyfriend looking for wood while I ran along the shore, shocking my nerves as my legs entered the frigid salt water.
A successful fire (which I can take no credit for), a bottle of wine, and a cloudy sunset later, we were exhausted and snuggled up in our tent for the night.
Coffee Stop: Killer Coffee
The next morning I had to feed my caffeine addiction (which somehow, disappointingly, my boyfriend doesn’t share), so we stopped at Killer Coffee. Espresso based drinks were being served out of a window in this food truck, which was placed right next to Recess in Tillamook. This easy to miss spot serves up a great latte (mine with almond milk) at a fair price. They also had some pretty good looking food.
Window Shopping: Manzanita
After passing a few cute beach towns we finally landed in Manzanita, described by my boyfriend as more “boujee.” Yet, while the town did have a wine bar, brunch spot, and several upscale boutiques, I didn’t get a pretentious vibe in the slightest. Instead, a small town inviting locals and tourists to lazily shop and relax at the beach.
Lunch: Offshore Grill
Having eaten only a banana for breakfast, I was starving. We stopped into Offshore grill not only because it was the closest thing to our car, but because there were dozens of people waiting outside. We ordered at the counter – a falafel burger for me and a hamburger with pork belly for him, both with sweet potato fries – and waited alongside the others for our food. After about 20 minutes our name was called and we sat on the curb in the sun to chow. It was one of those “I’m so hungry and this food is so good” meals that result in lack of talking and lots of shoving food into our mouths.
Reader’s Paradise: Cloud and Leaf Bookstore
I am a sucker for a bookstore, so when my boyfriend pointed out Cloud & Leaf I couldn’t resist. We walked into the green building to see that the little store held a lot more books than I could have imagined. Walls were covered in shelves and we fingered though pages of books we’ve heard of and some we haven’t, mentally making a to-read list. Classical music was playing through the speakers and the salesperson was talking to a customer about her upcoming trip into the woods for a month. I could have spent hours here.
Fun fact: this bookstore is owned by the author Deborah Reed who wrote Pale Morning Light with Violet Swan.
Right off the Highway: Devils Cauldron Trail
After winding down the 101 for a short while, we pulled off at a lookout point that also had a trailhead. The ocean stretched as far as I could see in front of me. Looking to the side, I noticed the curve of the beach hidden behind the deep green pines that surrounded me.
Grabbing my hand, my boyfriend led me down the steep path that was loosely held together by grey rocks. Being one of the clumsiest people you will ever meet, I was just waiting for the moment my foot slipped and I landed on my butt. Thankfully that didn’t happen, and the rest of the walk was fairly flat. We passed by berry bushes and after about a half mile got to the end.
A bench was placed in perfect position to enjoy the breathtaking view of the cliffside, but my daredevil boyfriend snuck through the fence and climbed out onto the rock. I followed, but not nearly as far, as I am scared of falling hundreds of feet to my death.
On our left, the ocean, on our right a tide pool and mountains. No matter which way you looked, the view was incredible.
Climbing back with slightly shaky legs from the nerves, I promised myself I would return to this spot every time I’m in town.
Surf Mecca: Short Sands Beach
I am someone who can’t get enough of surf culture. Living in Hawaii two blocks from some of the best longboarding waves in the world, I finally was able to hone in on my skills. I immediately fell in love with the sport. The rush of popping up on the board, cutting through waves, gliding across the water were sensations I became addicted to.
That’s why when I was told that we were going to one of the most popular surf spots in Oregon, I couldn’t contain my excitement. Sure, I didn’t have a board with me, or a wet suit for that matter, but even being able to watch other people catch a few waves was enough to make my day. We parked in a lot filled with vans which showcased beds resting on platforms, making room for surf board storage below. Blonde kids in flat caps and surf brand t-shirts ran around barefoot.
We walked the short trail to the beach, passing massive trees and a calm steam. Finally arriving at the ocean, the place was packed. From groms to people my parents age, almost everyone was dressed in wet suits and carrying longboards. The rest were chatting with friends and watching the surfers. The waves weren’t incredible but every now and then a good sized set would roll through. Plus, to me, half the fun is just being out in the water, and on this sunny day I’m sure I wouldn’t have been the only one enjoying that aspect.
We laid on the beach and I read while my boyfriend took a nap. After he woke up from a sandstorm we walked to the end of the beach where a waterfall was gliding down the side of the mountain. We climbed along the rocks and poked at the sea anemone, making them squirt water back at us.
Exhausted from the past day, we headed back that evening, covered in salt and sand, but not wanting it any other way.
